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In the village of Piazze, just south of Cetona, there’s Ristorante La Vigna, with outdoor seating in the back opening to lovely views towards the Fighine castle. Run by a charming elderly couple, Flavio and Savina have made this into a traditional cozy place where you eat very well. They specialize on fresh fish Thursdays and Fridays. In the evenings, pizza is baked in the wood oven by Savina. Closed Wednesdays. Via Provinciale 123, 53040 Piazze SI, center of town. Tel: 0578-244-007. ($)